Hobbyboy update: make sure you check the box completely. This kit comes with x4 hinges that somehow came out of the bag. So make sure you check the box completely. No video is needed for assembly, as it's not that difficult. you have x8 black plastic tabs. These are for the main wing, and they aid in helping the wings bolt onto the fuse. Don't mix them up, and you have a top and bottom piece two on each wing. two on each side of the fuse where the wing attaches. Next, you have a ply battery tray, and it only fits in one place. The other ply pieces are for nose wheel, remove ducting hatch, and the mounts for the EDF. This mount comes in x2 pieces for each side and has a cut of for a nut to be glued in. Mounting the elevator hinges is supper easy to do and no big deal. The one issue I've uncovered is the wing spar. The outside diameter was too small, and the spar was moving around. I fixed this issue with a 6mm cf tube I have that worked perfectly. You can glue all wood parts in. Vertical fins can be glued in as well. Do not glue the fuselage parts together until you have the power system properly laid out inside the fuse. On a side note, the fan housing looks like it will except a 70mm fan unit. I plan on not using the landing gear, so there is no need for a steering servo in the nose.

Hobbyboy I just received my F-35 in the mail today. So far, i have done a dry/tape fit of the parts. All parts fit well, accept the Cf wing spar. Lucky i had a 6mm cf tube, which worked. The supplied spar was loose did you notice this also.

Hobbyboy It says multi protocol. Of you have a RadioMaster T16, Zorro or what have you. The you would need to set the protocol. RadioMaster uses D16(frsky accst) protocol. RadioMaster has a sequence that if you plug and unplug power 3 times . It will go into bind mode, or use the boot button.

Hobbyboy This rc car is very well built and fast. So I wanted it to go faster and decided to upgrade everything. I bought all the upgrade parts this beast would need, except the motor/gearbox mount. I bought an NHX motor/esc combo at a great price. I started the upgrade and realized the motor mount would not allow the spur gear to easily slide back through the opening. You will have to destroy it! It's a hard plastic or something, but it doesn't flex enough to allow the motor to be removed. It doesn't allow for a pinion puller to be used either. I had to use a flat head screw driver and mangle the mount, trying to get it to stretch. So if you want to purchase this, go ahead. Just remember when the motor dies it can't be easily replaced. Also if you do the upgrades get the longer CVD shafts. They are upgraded to fit the newer differential in the gearboxes. The stock ones are to small. The upgraded parts have bolts and the are different size hex heads. So you will need small and smaller Allenwrenches to use the new hardware or just use the stock ones. Hope this helps some one looking for a sweet little headache.

Hobbyboy Check out the NHX 180 bl motor and 18a esc. You can find it on Amazon. Should make this a "Monster"

Hobbyboy I'm waiting for one of these to arrive in the mail. The first thing I'm doing is removing the 130 brushed motor. Replacing it with a 180 2500kv brushless motor and 18a esc. The motor/esc are upgrades for minZ and Wltoyk989. NHX is the brand name of motor/esc. This should shed some grams from the overall weight. That brushed motor/esc/ rx is about 30g altogether. The bl upgrade is half that weight. I also purchased the new RM MT12 ground tx for this upgrade. I'm also eyeballing the aluminum upgrade kit.